Como costurar peças de couro?

Como costurar peças de couro?

O couro representa elegância, limpeza e durabilidade. Acessórios como bolsas, carteiras, broches e sapatos, quando produzidos com couro, possuem um tom refinado e atemporal, pois o couro é – e sempre será – tendência. Convenhamos que é sempre bom reviver suas antigas peças reparando-as com a arte da costura.

Costurar couro pode ser visto como uma tarefa trabalhosa e difícil. Nicole Mallalieu, premiada estilista australiana, costuma dizer que “o couro é um material que não perdoa erros. Afinal, ele já foi a pele de um animal, logo, é um tecido duro”. Tal afirmação não deixa de ser uma verdade e por isso se faz necessária uma precisa orientação à tarefa.

O que usar? Tendo à disposição uma máquina de costura para montar o seu modelo (máquinas de costura domésticas costuram sem problemas couros de espessuras leves e médias), as ferramentas básicas são: lápis ou caneta para traçar os moldes; tesouras para cortar o couro, tecido e papel; clipes, pregadores e alfinetes (tome cuidado com estes, pois o furo é irreversível) para prender. A agulha deve ser especial para o material, pois são mais afiadas.

Precisa de colas? Não necessariamente, mas em alguns casos sim, como por exemplo no caso de costura de margens estreitas. Nesse caso, pregadores e clipes já não serão mais eficientes. Indica-se o uso de colas para apliques de couro com couro e também com peças pequenas, como laços e flores.

Há diversos tipos de couro sintético, cada um com suas respectivas funções estéticas e com seus prós e contras quanto ao modo de uso e à costura. Dentre os mais comuns temos o courino, semelhante ao couro legítimo: o material do courino é fácil de se trabalhar, pois sua textura facilita o deslize na máquina. Embora seja reconhecido por sua grande variedade de cores, o courino não é, entretanto, recomendado para apliques.

O courvim já não possui a mesma variedade de cores do courino, porém é altamente recomendado para apliques. O material pode ser encontrado em versões mais lisas, com pouca textura ou bem texturizadas. Semelhante ao courvim, temos o couro naval – a principal diferença entre os dois está no fato deste último ser “impermeável”, sendo, assim, muito utilizado em produtos que futuramente terão contato com a água, como o estofamento de barcos por exemplo.

Nesse universo temos ainda a napinha, tipo de couro que, por ser pouco texturizado e bem fino, pode ser confundido com plástico. É o mais barato dentre os já citados e também o mais difícil de trabalhar. Não desliza suavemente na máquina e os traços do molde, em cores claras, são visíveis no verso.

Agora que já tivemos uma boa introdução aos diferentes tipos de couro e às ferramentas necessárias para a costura,vamos para a prática!

Tenha à disposição diversas agulhas em tamanhos de 11 a 16. Geralmente, os pontos da máquina que suportam o material têm entre 9 e 14 cm de largura. O uso de um pé de teflon irá facilitar o processo, deslizando facilmente sobre o couro, mas não se esqueça de verificar a compatibilidade com o pé a sua máquina. Caso a tarefa de deslizar continue complicada, passe talco no couro.

Para fazer um aplique de couro será necessária fita adesiva dupla-face. Corte-a em vários pedaços e utilize-a para prender os apliquese depois costurá-los. Conforme for costurando, remova um pedaço de fita de cada vez. Use a fita dupla-face para prender pedaços pequenos e fixá-los enquanto os costura.Para marcar o molde, transfira-o diretamente para o avesso do couro usando a caneta preta ou prata e, então, recorte-o.

É importante que se comece a costura a 0,5cm da borda do couro,tendo assim espaço para segurá-lo e manipulá-lo com maior firmeza sob a pedaleira. Quando terminar, volte e costure na direção contrária. Lembre-se de reforçar a costura nas bordas.

Lembre-se sempre de que todas as dicas aqui somente são aplicáveis se você tiver à sua disposição uma máquina de costura. É preciso ter cuidado ao costurar com o couro e treinar bastante.Uma vez desfeita a costura, os furos permanecerão ali, danificando gravemente a peça. Comece primeiro com projetos simples e certifique-se de ter sempre em mãos as melhores ferramentas para o serviço.

A Máquinas União, empresa presente no mercado de costura há 40 anos, é reconhecida mundialmente, atuante no exterior em países como Estados Unidos, China, Coreia do Sul, Japão e Itália. Com um leque variado de opções como máquinas de bordado, máquinas de corte, máquinas de fusionar, dentre outras ferramentas, a Máquinas União oferece o material para diversas demandas de costura, especializando-se em couro.

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